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Feb 14

Can’t take the Ottoman out of the Balkans

Posted on Sunday, February 14, 2010 in Ottoman Empire

Skopje's Turkish quarter - Turkish mosque

For some Macedonians, this is just a mirage. Skopje's Turkish quarter (Photo: Ranopamas)

Published in Globus-Skopje on February 8, 2010

Five centuries of Turkish domination left their mark on culture, cuisine, language and even gestures in Balkan countries. It is an influence that is still apparent in attitudes that have affected the pace of integration in the European Union for a number of Balkan states.

For the most part, Balkan scholars tend to overlook the influence of Ottoman heritage on contemporary Balkan identities. In so doing they are largely aligned with public opinion in the Balkans, which also prefers to minimize the significance of an Ottoman legacy that is nonetheless omnipresent. Maria Todorova, author of Imagining the Balkans (Oxford University Press, 1997), has sparked controversy by accusing official historians and other Balkan state sanctioned academics of disguising the truth about the region’s Ottoman past and heritage, which is often denied or perceived with disdain. In her native Bulgaria, where “Turkish subjugation” is the only officially sanctioned term for the Ottoman era, Todorova goes even further to suggest that it is no longer a question of studying “the Ottoman legacy in the Balkans,” but rather of studying the “the Ottoman legacy that is the Balkans.” And as a starting point, she proposes the etymology of the word “balkan,” which comes from the Turkish for “wooded mountain.”

This heritage is perceptible on every level of social interaction. For example, in political life, it is expressed by an exclusively extra-institutional approach to problem solving (pazarlık – bargaining). Then there is the absence of an indigenous cultural elite. In all of the regions of the Ottoman empire, elites were mainly composed of intellectuals who had been educated abroad: a situation that remained relatively unchanged when the different nations of the empire finally obtained their independence. At the same time, the lack of a local bourgeoisie or aristocracy, and the failure to industrialize that characterized the Ottoman era continued to contribute to the economic weakness of Balkan countries well into the 20th century.

Centuries of Turkish power have left their mark

The Ottoman era has also left extensive traces in everyday customs and gestures that figure large in our cultural codes. Along with the wealth of Turkisms in our speech, our non-verbal discourse is marked by distinctive “post-Ottoman” tropes that are completely incomprehensible to Westerners. In particular, they are astonished by well defined abrupt gestures like spitting to show disappointment or indignation (which is often highlighted with a loud shout of Yazık ! – “calamity”) and are immune to the subtleties of Oriental body language e.g. leaning heavily on one knee to show one is serious. Cuisine is another area in daily life which has no shortage of Turkish influences: sarma (stuffed vine or cabbage leaves),  moussaka, tourlitava (ratatouille) and börek savoury pastries are first and foremost Oriental specialities. We drink Turkish coffee and we love baklavas, touloumbas, boza and other Ottoman sweets. And lets not forget the preponderant role of the kafeana in determining public opinion in cities and small villages, which makes it radically different from a restaurant or a bar in the Western world.

If we indulge in a little introspection, it is easy to cite several other examples: patriarchy, corruption, judiciaries controlled by political and financial elites, the black economy and the systematic recourse to bargaining are typical of Ottoman culture. Such is the deep rooted influence of five and half centuries of Turkish power and presence in our cultures that it has had a unique and not wholly beneficial impact on our progress towards the liberal Western model. It has also created an enduring obsession with defining characteristics of the Ottoman empire, which is why — at a time, when everyone uses the internet and speaks English as second language — debate is still focused on the opportunity to build new mosques and churches.

Jan 16

Istanbul: The New European Capital of Culture

Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2010 in Istanbul

Istanbul: New European Capital of Culture

Turks are ready for the big party starting at the Halic Congress Center of Istanbul today,  marking the new status of Istanbul, Turkey’s cultural and financial center, as the 2010 European Capital of Culture. The Turkish festivities started with an official ceremony, attended by high-level diplomatic representations from 40 countries. during which the Turkish President Abdullah Gul and the Turkish Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan will deliver the opening speeches. Special firework and light shows and simultaneous cultural events in seven different spots of the city will be performed throughout the night.

Istanbul, the capital of three great empires in the last 2000 years, is one of the world’s leading cultural and historical centers today, thanks to its enormously rich and diverse cultural and historical heritage. Istanbul will keep its status of European Capital of Culture throughout 2010 together with the cities of Pecs in Hungary and Essen in Germany. There will be several hundred cultural events, ranging from concerts to dance shows and art exhibitions, celebrating this new prestigious status of the Turkish city. Hundreds of monuments and historical sights have been restored and 18 cultural centers were built throughout Istanbul to host the cultural celebrations.

As the only city in the world that lies in two continents, Istanbul is expected to attract thousands of new visitors in 2010. With a 6.5% increase compared to 2008, over 7.5 million foreign tourists visited Istanbul last year. Germans formed the largest group with 14.8%, followed by Brits (5.7%) and French (5.1%). This number is expected to increase significantly in 2010 because of the city’s new title.

Jan 13

Beginner Turkish Classes in NYC

Posted on Wednesday, January 13, 2010 in Learning Turkish in NYC

For New Yorkers who would like to learn Turkish in NYC, two new beginner Turkish classes are offered this semester by the NYC Turkish Club. The classes will start on January 26th and there will be two sessions meeting for 12 Tuesday evenings in Midtown Manhattan. There will be an opportunity to sign up for a Turkish II class once this Turkish I class ends.

Learning Turkish is turned into a fun activity by applying different teaching methods in an interactive class setting at NYC Turkish Club.  Also, in an effort to make the Turkish language accessible to everyone, the classes are offered at a fraction of the cost.

With the rising importance of Turkey in the world stage, Turkish is becoming more and more important every day. Being one of the world’s top 10 largest spoken languages, Turkish can be used in many countries other than Turkey, including Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Iran, Kyrgyzstan and parts of Russia thanks to its Turkic roots.

NYC Turkish Club has been offering beginner, intermediate and advanced Turkish classes in New York several nights a week since 2005, in addition to organizing social and cultural events that introduce Turkey and Turkish culture to New Yorkers.  Beginner Turkish classes are offered three semesters a year, whereas intermediate and advanced classes are available all year round.

Come and experience the Turkish culture at the NYC Turkish Club!

For more info on all Turkish classes:  NYC Turkish Club